LOST DRIVER 3.0 (5'9-6'6)

The culmination of three years of refinement and evolution, the DRIVER3.0 is the latest iteration of our high-performance surfboard design. Developed in collaboration with our elite team riders, this board represents the pinnacle of modern surfboard design.

Evolution of a Champion

Since the launch of the Driver2.0 in 2019, our team has consistently pushed the boundaries of what is possible. With input from top-tier surfers like Griffin Colapinto, Kolohe Andino, and Yago Dora, we've refined the design to deliver unparalleled performance.

Key Features

• Slightly more tail rocker: Increased maneuverability and responsiveness.
• Deeper double to single concave: More lift and speed through the rear half.
• Scooped out deck line: Lower, boxy rails for seamless water entry.
• Narrower hip: Added grip and stability.
• Round tail: Forgiving and confidence-inspiring.
• Forward volume: Enhanced glide and responsiveness off the front foot.

Performance-Driven Design

The DRIVER3.0 is designed for high-level surfers seeking a competitive edge. With its refined outline, rocker, and concave, this board delivers:

• Speed: More lift and drive through the rear half.
• Maneuverability: Tight radius turns and responsiveness.
• Stability: Forgiving and confidence-inspiring.

Proven on the World Stage

The DRIVER3.0 has been tested and refined by some of the world's best surfers, including Griffin Colapinto, who rode it to victory in the 2022 WCT events in Portugal and El Salvador.

dims and volumes

• Griffin Colapinto: 5'11 x 28.50 liters
• Yago Dora: 5'11 and 6'0 x 29.50 liters
• Kolohe Andino and Crosby Cola: 5'11 x 29.00 liters

The Ultimate Driver Machine

The DRIVER3.0 is the culmination of years of refinement and evolution. With its performance-driven design and proven track record, it's the ultimate tool for high-level surfers seeking a competitive edge.

 PU or polyurethane production is traditional surfboard construction.   This was started in the early 60s and to this day is an industry standard.  It’s just one of those rare times where we got it right the first time.  Polyurethane blank can have a density as low as 2 lbs which is Ultra Light Foam or as high as 12 lbs which is Tow Foam.  There are several densities between these but you have to figure out what is the best strength to weight ratio for you. 

Obviously, a light board is going to feel the best but it will get destroyed much faster.  Can you afford to buy a new short board every two months?  A heavy board might last you five to ten years but ride like a slug. Ultra Light Foam is used in the pro short boards and the pro long boards.  Since, this foam is light it has the least amount of strength.  You should expect to get pressure dings in all boards but this foam will get pressure dings much more frequently.

The best way to reduce pressure dings is to add an extra layer, deck patch or tail patch.  Look at the board you have now and see where the most pressure dings are.  That is probably where you need a patch.  If you are heavy on your back foot a tail patch is fine.  If you are heavy only on your front foot a front foot patch is all you need.  You may want a ½ deck patch or even a 2/3 patch.  There is no sense in a full extra layer unless you are nose riding or looking for a heavier board.

More layers of lighter fiberglass cloth is stronger than an equal weight of less layers.  For example, a triple 4oz deck is 12 oz of glass.  A double 6oz deck is 12 oz of glass but the triple 4oz deck is going to be much stronger.  This is why a deck patch is the best way to reduce pressure dings.

S-cloth is a stronger stiffer cloth than traditional E-glass.  It costs more than regular E-cloth but is much stronger for overall strength of the board.  If you are breaking boards, you may want to spend a little more on s-cloth for your next board.   S-cloth does help in reducing pressure dings but the strength of S-cloth really shines in the over strength of the board.  You only need to use S-cloth on the lapping layers to get the benefits of S-cloth.

If you are breaking boards and do not want to spend more money you can ask the laminator to cut bigger laps.  This is no additional charge because the excess fiberglass is thrown away.  The bigger lap will create a bigger I-Beam on the rail.  It will add a little more weight.  Most customers ordering big guns will request big laps along with layers of S-cloth.

Another option if you are worried about breaking a board is order a thicker stringer or triple stringer.  More lumber equals more strength.  It also equals more weight.  Most stringers are 3/16 to ¼ inch.  US blanks will usually have 3/8 stringers in stock and sometimes ½ inch in stock.

Epoxy is another option for adding strength.  Epoxy laminations will add $75 to $200 to the cost of the board depending on the size.  Epoxy laminations must be cooked in an oven to cure.  If you laminator did not cook your epoxy board it is not cured.  This defeats the purpose of spending more money for epoxy.

The strongest board you can order would be a PU blank, laminated in S-cloth and epoxy.  The lightest board you could order is a EPS blank laminated in epoxy.

Surfboard Shipping

Due to handling requirements, surfboards are shipped with specific protocols and fees.

a. Oahu Store Pickup

HAWAII SURFBOARD SHIPPING RATES

NEIGHBOR ISLANDS:

➤ Hawaiian Air Cargo

(All Size Boards)  - ETA Usually in two days (Boards can be picked up from the Hawaiian Air Cargo Airport from 7AM in the morning, a day after the board has been sent out.)

Hawaiian Air Cargo charges $25 per day if the board is not picked up within 48 hours of arrival at their facility.

CONTINENTAL USA: SURFBOARD SHIPPING