Hawaiian South Shore January 2025 Newsletter

👥 Member of the Month: Keoni Kauwe

When and why did you initially get into surfing?

"While I spent much of my younger years in the ocean diving and body boarding, I didn't touch a surfboard until 2021."

Tell us about your surfing journey

"I recently had a hip surgery and had to take nearly 6 months off from surfing. The surgery went well, but the time away from surfing was brutal! I started back up in June of this year. My day job is very demanding and surfing is where I recharge so I can do that job well."

What is your favorite thing about surfing?

"I love the challenge. Every session, every wave is a new challenge. The progression of difficulty appears to be endless. I love the connection to nature. You cannot force a wave, you have to see it, understand it, feel it, and work with it. That is so different from the daily grind of life— it teaches me lessons that I think make me a better person, husband, and father. Finally, I love surfing with my kids, some of the best times and best talks with friends or family happen in the surf."

What boards are you riding?

"I bought the TJ Pro V in volcanic. Coming back from my surgery I needed some longboard time. I am back on my 7'6" HI Mid6 now though, which I also bought from you guys. I LOVE that board and it is my daily driver. I ride it with quads and it is the 'magic' board for me."

What do you do when you're not surfing?

"I am a PhD scientist and have focused studying diagnosis, genetic risk, and therapeutics for Alzheimer's disease. But a few years ago I shifted my focus to academic leadership. I have been the President of BYU–Hawaii for the last 4.5 years."

🏆 Meet Landon McNamara—Music, Model, Pro Surfer, and Eddie Winner

Oahu’s North Shore is a breeding ground for surfing dynasties, including the Ho family (world champ Derek Ho, North Shore legend Michael Ho, and Michael’s two kids Coco and Mason Ho, who are in the midst of their own long, successful careers) and the Jones family (surfer and supermodel Malia, world-renowned barrel hunter Mikala, and pro surfer-turned-shaper Daniel, all brought up by their father John, who was a staff photographer for Surfing Magazine). 

Another multi-generational surfing family that is quickly becoming a dynasty is the McNamaras. Everyone knows about Garrett, who went from being one of the North Shore’s leading big wave surfers to the pioneer and face of Portugal’s Nazare (as well as a world-record holder, television star, and a bona fide mainstream celebrity). His brother Liam, of course, was one of the heaviest hitters at Pipeline during his era, as well as one of the first pro surfers to start wearing a helmet in the water. He also runs a famous surfboard shop on the North Shore, just across the food truck parking lot from Foodland. But recently it has been Liam’s son Landon who has been receiving the most attention in the McNamara family.

Landon has been a North Shore standout since he was a teenager, respected for his performances at Pipeline and other heavy water spots in the area. But he transcended his pro surfer hype when he released his first album, A Dollar Short and a Minute Late, which topped the iTunes reggae chart and went top five on the Billboard reggae chart. His single “Loss for Words” became a legit hit in the island reggae community, and springboarded Landon not only to a successful music career, but also a side career as a model for with Ford Models, where he has done campaigns for brands such as American Eagle Outfitters.

In late December, Landon brought the attention squarely back to his surfing when he won the 2024/25 Eddie, becoming the first goofyfoot to ever win what is arguably the most prestigious event in big wave surfing, if not surfing as a whole. Competing in 15-25 foot surf (Hawaiian scale), Landon aced a couple of crazy drops on his backhand, earned the only perfect 50 score of the event, and reminded everyone that he has always been, first and foremost, one of the world’s best big wave surfers.

Watch video on Landon's IG Account

Making Landon’s wind at Waimea even more exciting was the fact that the event was only running for the 11^th time in 40 years, and that the waiting period had only started a week before the event ran. Capping an incredible week of surf in which the North Shore outer reefs and Waimea were 12 feet or bigger for six days straight, the Eddie saw a number of closeout sets and arguably the largest swell for Oahu since the previous Eddie, which was won by local lifeguard Luke Shepardson in January 2023 (in what many have called the greatest surf contest of all time).

Landon’s win was a win for everyone on the North Shore, as the local surfer and musician has been a representative of Aloha on Oahu for years. We were excited to see Landon cap his incredible career with this huge win, and to keep the Eddie trophy on the North Shore for the third time in a row (John John Florence won it before Luke Shepardson) and the seventh time ever. When you add in Kauai’s Bruce Irons, who won in 2004, eight out of the 11 winners of the event have been from Hawaii—proving once again that the Aloha State has the best big wave surfers on the planet.

📅 January 2025 Must-Watch Surfing Events

🤙 Start 2025 Right: Essential Surf Etiquette Guide

🏄‍♀️ From Beginner to Confident: ChiChi's MOE Board Journey

🚀 Takayama Halo Fin System: Common Questions Answered

👨‍🍳 The Carnivore Diet: A Different Wave in Surfer Nutrition

I've recently been following Dr. Robert Kiltz (@doctorkiltz) and his fascinating take on nutrition through the carnivore diet. While I'm not advocating for anyone to try this approach (I'm not a medical professional), I wanted to share some interesting findings about this movement that's gaining traction in the health and wellness community.

Meet Dr. Robert Kiltz

Dr. Kiltz is a board-certified OB/GYN and reproductive endocrinologist who has taken an unconventional path in medicine. What makes him particularly interesting is his journey from practicing traditional medicine to exploring alternative approaches to health. He's become known for his "B.E.B.B.I." protocol (Bacon, Eggs, Butter, Beef, Ice Cream) - yes, you read that right - ice cream is included in his version of the carnivore diet:

• 🥓 Bacon
• 🍳 Eggs
• 🧈 Butter
• 🥩 Beef
• 🍦 Ice Cream

🤔 Did You Know? A Slice of Surfing History

The Origin of "Hanging Ten"

Ever wonder why we call nose-riding moves on a longboard "hanging ten"? The term actually originated in the 1950s from surfers poking fun at each other's foot positions. One day, a surfer joked that his friend looked like he was hanging his ten toes over the nose of the board like wet laundry on a clothesline. The name stuck, and "hanging ten" became part of surfing's permanent vocabulary!

Of course, we can't verify if this origin story is 100% accurate since surfers are known for their creative storytelling, but it's definitely more entertaining than saying "standing at the front of the board with all toes over the edge." 😉