Sep 9, 2024
Hawaiian South Shore September 2024 Newsletter
In this month's newsletter:
- 🌊 How to Improve Your Surfing with Back Arm Position
- 👉 Surfer's Bio: Surfers of the North Shore (the Power Couple Edition) Keahi de Aboitiz and Moona Whyte
- 🏄 Great White Talk Story with Mark Pesce (Firewire Surfboards) and Macy Mullen (Firewire Team Rider)
- 💨 Member of the Month: Matt Rode
- 🌞 2+1 Fin Setup That Will Change The Way Your Surfboard Surfs
- 😎 Reviews From Surfers
- 📌 Surfing Events This September
How to Improve Your Surfing with Back Arm Position
I am always looking for ways to improve my performance in the water and on waves. A lot of what goes into good surfing can only be learned from hundreds of hours in the water, but once in a while I stumble on a piece of advice that is easy to implement and that has an oversized impact on how I surf. Usually, these tips are pretty intuitive and common sense, but also something that I simply haven’t managed to articulate myself.
The most recent tip that I’ve come across relates to the position of the back arm while surfing. As explained on this Instagram post, the position of the back arm has a huge influence on the direction the surfboard takes and the efficiency with which it gets there. The video on the post provides a great visual demonstration of how having your back arm facing backward impedes your forward momentum on the board. Learn More About The Importance of Back Arm Position in Surfing Here...
Surfer's Bio: Surfers of the North Shore (the Power Couple Edition) Keahi de Aboitiz and Moona Whyte
Pretty much any given day during the summer, when the waves are small and the trades are blowing just enough to push some ENE windswell around the corner, you’ll see two people out foiling at Laniakea. Depending on the conditions, they might be prone foiling, winging, riding e-foils or foil drives—just about anything that can get them into the tiny, gutless waves limping onto the reef at Lanis. But regardless what they are riding (or how bad the waves are), one thing can be depended on, day in and day out: They are ripping.
Keahi and Moona may be the most naturally talented couple in the foil community, which is pretty crazy, since that’s not even what they are best known for. Foiling is just the newest tool in the quivers of these two all-around waterpeople, who have made a career out of kiting, but who shred on virtually anything that can glide across a wave.
Originally from Noosa, Australia, Keahi grew up surfing under the tutelage of his waterman father in a town known for its creative thinking when it comes to riding waves. Unlike the Gold Coast a few hours south, where it’s 99 percent shortboarding, Noosa’s wide variety of waves encourages a diverse approach to the ocean, from longboarding and kiting to paddling and SUP. Keahi does all of those well, but kiting is where he really thrives. He’s a four-time kitesurfing world champion, four-time Australian champion (in both kite surfing and kiteboard freestyle), and one of the world’s best when it comes to heavy water kiting.
Of course, the wind isn’t always good for kiting—and that doesn’t bother Keahi one bit. He still loves normal surfing as much as ever, especially when the waves are firing, and he spends much of the year chasing heavy barrels around the world. And when he’s at home on the North Shore, he’s out packing barrels at Backdoor and other heavy-water spots whenever they are on. When they aren’t, he’s either on a SUP or his trusty foil setup, continuing what has become a virtually endless pursuit of waves.
It is only natural that a person as talented and focused on the ocean at Keahi would eventually find his female counterpart, and he did so in Hawaii native Moona White.
Like Keahi, Moona was heavily influenced by her father, who encouraged her to pursue all manner of water-based pursuits. She quickly became a proficient surfer, and then a world-class kitesurfer who has four kitesurfing world titles to her name (the most recent of which was in 2023), as well as a second-place finish in 2015.
But Moona is far more than just a world champ kitesurfer. She’s also become an elite foiler—a fact that she proved last year when she won the wingfoil wave world championship. In addition, she is an excellent surfer who charges heavy barrels harder than just about any other woman out there (and most men, as well).
Together, Keahi and Moona make up what is arguably the most dominant power couple in the history of watermen/waterwomen.
Whether they are on the North Shore, visiting Keahi’s homeland of Australia, dominating the kite and wing tours, or traveling to their favorite locations (which include Fiji and the Marshall Islands, where they spend multiple months per year), they are always standouts in the water, logging more time in the lineup than anyone and putting on daily clinics on a variety of watercraft. From big waves to small, glassy to windy, surf to SUP to foil to kite, they are the consummate ocean-loving duo—and we on Oahu are lucky to have them living in our backyard.
Great White Talk Story with Mark Pesce (Firewire Surfboards) and Macy Mullen (Firewire Team Rider)
Riding the Wave: Exploring Kelly Slater's Great White Surfboard
Surfers, get ready to dive into the world of high-performance boards with the latest creation from Kelly Slater's the Great White. This innovative surfboard, born from a collaboration between Kelly Slater and shaper Mike Woo, has quickly become a go-to choice for surfers seeking versatility and performance.
From Bali to Your Local Break
Originally conceived as a Bali-specific board, the Great White has evolved into an all-around performer that excels in various wave conditions. As Mark from Firewire explains, "We evolved it into just a really good all-around board." Its design features a lower entry rocker and a wider mid-section, providing excellent stability and speed. The tail flip and pinched rails offer the tight, responsive feel of a shortboard, allowing for precise bottom and top turns even in bigger or steeper waves.
Twin Fin Magic
One of the standout features of the Great White is its fin setup versatility. Mark notes, "Kelly goes straight twin on it all day long," though many surfers opt for a 2+1 configuration with a small trailer fin for added stability. This fin flexibility allows riders to customize their experience based on wave conditions and personal preference.
Volcanic Power
The Great White utilizes Firewire's innovative volcanic construction, which offers a unique blend of durability, pop, and flex. Mark enthusiastically shares, "When you can get it to break in, it has this really good pop behind it." This construction method not only enhances performance but also contributes to the board's longevity.
Finding Your Sweet Spot
When it comes to positioning on the board, the Great White offers flexibility. Mark advises, "You just need to make sure you're behind the side fins." This adaptability makes it accessible to a wide range of surfing styles and skill levels.
Performance Across Conditions
Perhaps the most impressive aspect of the Great White is its ability to perform in various wave conditions. Macy, a Firewire Aloha Ambassador, raves about his experience: "It had a lot of drive, a lot of speed, really loose going up into the lip... and a lot of projection coming out." He even joked about feeling ready to join the Challenger Series after riding it in small beach break conditions.
A Quiver Essential
For many surfers, including Mark, the Great White has earned a permanent spot in their quiver. He shares, "This is the board when I drive around my region, this is a good one I leave in the car." It bridges the gap between a pure groveler and a high-performance shortboard, making it an ideal choice for those days when wave conditions are unpredictable or varied.
The Verdict
The Great White represents a significant step forward in surfboard design, blending the speed and flow of a twin fin with the precision and control of a performance shortboard.
Its versatility across wave conditions and accessible yet high-performance characteristics make it a compelling option for surfers looking to elevate their game.
Macy sums it up perfectly: "Add this to your quiver. It's a trustworthy board... You could ride it in good surf, bad surf."
The Great White offers an exciting ride that may just revolutionize your surfing experience. Consider adding this innovative board to your quiver and experience the thrill of riding a truly versatile and responsive surfboard.
Remember, the best way to truly understand the magic of the Great White is to try it for yourself. So why not catch a wave on one this September and feel the difference?
Member of the Month: Matt Rode
When and why did you initially get into surfing?
I was pushed into my first wave at Queens Beach when I was 9 and immediately fell in love with it. Since then, my entire life has been built around surfing and the ocean.
Did you have a time period you laid off from surfing? If so, when and why did you start back up?
I did a couple of years of high school in Colorado, so I had to go around 9 months without surfing during those years. I ended up fallling in love with the mountains during that time, so each year since then I have spent a few months mountain biking, rock climbing, and snowboarding...but I always end up coming back to the ocean.What is your favorite thing about surfing?
I like how there are so many different ways to ride a wave. Depending on the conditions, you can charge huge waves, ride barrels, do turns on shortboards, cruise on fish or mid-lengths, noseride logs, body surf, ride surf mats, side-slip on alaias, and fly on foils—and I love doing all of it.
What product did you most recently purchase from us and why?
I think the last thing I picked up from the shop was a new pair of Da Fin flippers, because I'd lose on while bodysurfing on a trip.How do you like it so far?
I love them, of course! I have been using Da Fins for the past five years. They have the perfect amount of stiffness, and they chafe my feet less than other fins.What fins are you using with your new board?
I have a lot of new boards, and they all use different fins! I like the John John thruster set from Futures for my shortboards, the Zach Flores twin set from Futures for my new fish, the Paddle Quads from Futures for my guns, and the Flying Diamond CJ Nelson Pivot 11" for my log.
Have you used other fins in the past and how do these compare?
There was a set of fins called the (I'll try to remember what it was called, I have to ask my friend!) that I used to use for shortboards, and I swear those were the best thurster set I've ever surfed on. But I can't seem to find them anymore!
I've been using the same fins but recently changed the setup from quad to thruster. As I learn frontside turns, the thruster feels better. Quads make me feel limited, like I'm on a train track.Where is your favorite place to eat after surfing? What is your favorite item on the menu?
Probably Cosmic Kitchen when I am up on the North Shore. And Tane Sushi when I am in Town. The vegan BLT (with coconut bacon) at Cosmic, and the Wedge Roll at Tane.What other hobbies do you have besides surfing?
Snowboard, mountain bike, rock climb, trekking, pretty much anything active in nature. Yoga, foundations, and other forms of stretching and rehabilitative training to keep my body from falling apart. Playing music. Traveling.What type of work do you do?
I am an editor and ghostwriter as my day job, and I moonlight as a surf journalist/filmmaker.Do you have any additional comments or suggestions for us?
Keep up the good work!
2+1 Fin Setup That Will Change The Way Your Surfboard Surfs - The Power of Fin Selection
Surfing is an art form that requires skill, balance, and the right equipment. While many surfers focus on board shape and size, the often-overlooked hero of surf performance lies beneath the board – the fins. Understanding and selecting the right fin setup can dramatically transform your surfing experience, allowing you to harness the full potential of your board and the waves.
The Game-Changing 3.5 Fin Setup
At the forefront of fin innovation is the 3.5 fin configuration, particularly the "Power Twins" setup. This arrangement consists of two larger side fins and a smaller trailer fin, designed to excel in small to medium-sized waves. The increased surface area of the side fins provides superior grip and speed generation, crucial when wave power is lacking. Meanwhile, the smaller trailer fin enhances maneuverability without compromising drive.
Mastering Different Wave Conditions
For smaller waves, bigger side fins are your secret weapon. They offer more surface area to grab water, generating speed when the wave itself doesn't provide much push.
Paired with a small trailer fin, this setup allows for powerful bottom turns without the risk of sliding out, and easier pivoting during maneuvers.
Fine-Tuning Your Performance
Fin positioning plays a vital role in board performance. For beginners trying the 3.5 setup, start by placing the fins towards the back of the fin box for increased stability. As you grow more comfortable, gradually move them forward to loosen up the board's feel and enhance turning capability.
Versatility Across Board Types
The beauty of modern fin systems lies in their versatility. Options like the Mark Richards fins or the new twin fin setups can be used on both longboards and shortboards, offering a consistent feel across different board types. This adaptability allows surfers to maintain their style and performance regardless of the board they choose for the day's conditions.
As surfing technology evolves, so do fin designs. The introduction of fins like the Coco Ho model showcases the ongoing innovation in the field. By staying open to trying new setups, surfers can continually refine their performance and discover new dimensions to their surfing.In conclusion, the right fin setup can be the difference between an average session and an extraordinary one. By understanding and experimenting with different fin configurations, surfers can unlock new levels of performance, making every wave an opportunity for progression and enjoyment.
Reviews
Surfing Events This September
1. The 3rd Annual O'ahu Surf Film Festival took place on September 2, 2024, at the Regal Kapolei Commons in Kapolei, Hawaii. This year's festival featured a diverse lineup of both local and international surf films, showcasing the vibrant surf culture from around the world
Photo Credit to Oahu Surf Films IG
Some of the films included:
• "The Book of Hunter" (Australia) - A 9-year-old surfer's perspective on the Noosa surfing community.
• "Anywhere Aloha" (Hawaii) - A biography of Mike Coots, turning fate into purpose.
• "Delmar" (US) - A young surfer navigating life between two worlds.
• "Mahoroba" (Japan) - A surf documentary chasing waves in northern Japan
2. WSL Finals: The World Surf League (WSL) Finals took place last September 6 at Lower Trestles in San Clemente, California. This event will determine the men's and women's World Titles in a one-day, winner-take-all format. See the results here.
3. Surf Expo: The 2024 Surf Expo held in Orlando, Florida, from September 5 to 7. This is a major trade show for the surf industry, featuring exhibitors, seminars, and networking opportunities
BONUS: Unpublished Board Talk Story on our Youtube Channel, Check it out 🤙
📌 Taylor Jensen Talk Story on the Helium The Gem and Special T